High alert: Moonburn

Hey there!

Site Note: Those of you who want to read a proper german Travelblog:

www.reisefloh.de -> great Blog of my travel buddy Florian. Highly recommended!

At the moment I find myself sitting in an air-conditioned hostel room in Las Vegas, did not expect that a week ago. It is literally incredible what actually happened in such a short period of time! As a matter of fact, it took only 10 days to once again adapt to the traveling-in-your-car-lifestyle, and it feels pretty good I have to say! But before I start with some ravishing details about the latest highlights I want to go back to where this journey actually began.

I walked up to the queue of the arrival line. I felt a bit tense and just hoped for a quick passage through the procedure, without getting my survival knife, the boule set or even the triple-choc-muesli confiscated. When it was my turn, a middle aged, female security officer waved me through. She immediately started asking all sorts of questions: “Do you have siblings?”, “What is your line of work, in Germany?”, “How can you afford this trip?”, “What did you do for such a long time in Australia?” After assuring, that I do not intend to stay any longer than the generous three month visa allows, I had to give up the anonymity of my finger prints and – BAM - (she literally smashed my passport with the stamp).  I wandered off, with a relieved smile on my face. I am finally here. Muesli, knife, boule set – Check! Ready to hit the road!

On my way to the “just-pick-up/do not park bay” I realized that I did not forward any information, regarding my flight details, to Flo. Thankfully, I was able to connect to the Wifi and informed him of my arrival. It was extremely fogy, noisy and even cold, when I stepped out in the open. After ten minutes of waiting I spotted that black Ford explorer. He pulled up, I threw my bag in the back of the car, a quick hug and off we went. On our way to a pizza store, Flo explained that this weather is typical for San Francisco and that they even call it fog-city. After I finally had a proper meal, we decided to leave SF within this night so we could start our road trip as soon as possible. Fog city will still be there when we return from the burning man.

During the next days, we did what most low-budget travelers in the states do, we slept on Walmart parking lots. Due to the heat it always comes in handy to have ice for the eksy, excess to restrooms as well as the chance to buy groceries, especially when you do not have a lot of space in your vehicular transport. Also we spend an enormous amount of time in diverse Starbucks cafes, where you have access to power outles, air-conditioning as well as internet. Therefore, we had plenty of time and resources to plan the first stops along our trip. While I needed at least three days to adapt my circadian rhythm, Florian required some time to watch the latest season of “Game of Thrones”, which I brought with. During our procrastination we then decided to skip the Kings Canyon- as well as the Sequoia National Park, and head straight to the Yosemite National Park. On our way to that destination we had some problems with the car, when it ran to hot on a steep road - Flo had some trouble with it in the past, so that`s why we were so alert, when a rubberish smell was in the air. Luckily we found a mechanic in the next village. He assured that the car will probably be fine, at least for the next month. Hearing that was definitely worth the 20 bucks we paid. With a quick stop at a waterhole we headed straight to Yosemite National Park.

Sadly, the Yosemite National Park was not, what I hoped it would be. At first the scenic driveway to the valley seemed really promising. We arrived at the valley, followed the loop and stopped at multiple stops along the way. The landscape itself was impressive but the traffic as well as the insane amount of tourists destroyed the feeling of being in the wilderness. All the animals in the park were used to the visitors and thereby were all over the parking lots. Our patience was put on test multiple times, when the traffic guidance proved to be an absolute failure and the park itself had no lonely places to offer. Surrounded by cars and tourists we decided to stay on a parking lot for the night and try a hike on the next day, before making our minds up once in for all. In the morning we went on one of the hikes to a fall, which name I cannot even recall anymore – speaks for itself. The hiking track, aka paved road, was flooded with people. It was literally impossible to walk at your designated speed, because of the enormous rush. After half an hour we decided to turn around and leave the park as soon as possible – may traffic be with us. All in all, it was a big disappointment. Playing boule (definitely a travel recommendation) and the scenic drive in the valley were the fun moments. Although I have to say that our timing probably wasn’t the best, whilst we drove in on a Friday and stayed for a Saturday.

It felt pretty good to leave that touristic nest behind, while we were heading towards the Death Valley, which was promising to be less touristic place.

At a small Town, named Le Vining, I treated myself with fishing gear. Promising trout creeks and lakes, made it impossible not to give in. Making our way facing west, we stopped at several beautiful spots along the road, stayed for the night, played boule and performed some fine germanish “Hacknudeln”.

When we arrived at Big Pine, we fueled up our car, took one last swim in a lake nearby, knowing that it will be the last swim for the next couple of days, and drove in the Death Valley.

Death Valley:

This part of the post will be full of pictures, reflecting the impression this place had made on me. On our way we only passed a few cars. The landscape got rougher. Looking for something greenish in the surrounding proofed itself to be a lost cause. Passing through mountain sites I realized that this will be probably a truly adventurous part of my travel.

Our first destination, and a particular promising one, were the Eureka Dunes. For many people the idea of staying in a dessert valley, while the sun beats down on you, climbing sand dunes without having a real shower afterwards, seems as a less appealing thing to do. To be fair it can backfire when you are badly prepared or one of your tires dies (we sadly do not really have a spare one right at this moment), but these places have something about them. Arriving at afternoon, we spotted out the only available square meters of shade at the valley. Behind the toilet of a wild campground…

There was nothing that comes remotely close to a tree. When the sun finally died a well deserved death, Flo smoothly coated me in “breadcrums of boule”, for the fifth time in a row, and we decided to climb the dunes for the first time. That sandy adventure wasn’t that easy, but I welcomed the sportive challenge. Reaching the top, I was able to overlook the whole valley. It seemed unreal. It reminded me of the movie “The Trueman Show”, just that in this scenario there wouldn’t be huge, painted wall at the end of the horizon - just cruelly hot, massive, volcanic mountain. I probably had, what you might call, a strong emotional reaction to a landscape. Everything seemed close up there, but actually it was insanely far away. I already saw some amazing landscapes on my travels, but this scenic view was the most impressive one so far. Standing in the middle of a dessert, a huge dry, rocky pool without any water, literally no water at all, and watching the dawn in its early stages, was truly a moving moment. Almost instantly, and maybe even ironically, a thought came to mind: “How can it be, that just after being gone for 5 days, I find myself in a place like this?” It only needed a flight, a car and five days to see such an amazing place, unique place. After darkness settled in the valley, the actual highlight revealed itself. A crystal clear starlit sky. I have never seen the Milky Way this clear! A huge, bursting arc of light. We stayed up there for so long, that we got close to getting a classic moon burn. Moments you cannot really describe, explain, retain or photograph. Maybe a good thing!

The next day we spend one whole day next to the Eureka Dunes, and became experts in hiding from the merciless sun. The impressions below hopefully speak for themselves.

After dawn we went up on the dunes for one last time. It was extreme windy, sand whipped in our faces, what made us realize how lucky we had been on the night before. We returned to our car after only a couple of minutes. Time to leave the dunes.

Helped a guy switching his demolished tire

The next days we drove through the other parts of the valley, that immediately become more touristy. Still impressive though.

The second (F)lowest point in America, next to Donald Trump

Who can spot the sheep`s head?

That’s where I leave you for the time being. I hope you enjoyed these impressions.

I am still getting used to the blogspot tools.  The order of the pictures might be a little chaotic. I might sort it out laterish ;) Should do for now. 

Vince